Getting started in model railroading isn't complicated, but it does require knowing where to begin. This article is about that: how to build your first model railroad without making a mistake. The difference between a finished model and one that remains unfinished usually lies in the initial planning and having the right tools from the start. Not in the budget or manual skill. In the planning and the tools.
What do you need to start a model train?
The first thing to decide is whether you'll use a starter set or build from scratch. The sets include everything: tracks, transformer, train, and some buildings. They cost between €80 and €100.150€ They're good for testing if this is for you. But be warned, the quality of the tracks is usually just okay. They work, but don't expect German precision.
If you prefer individual parts, it's better in the long run. A decent transformer costs around 40-60€, flexible tracks about 3-5€ the section, and a basic locomotive from 50€. With 200€ You build something small but decent. The advantage is that you choose quality in every component.
Actual budgets by level
Basic level (200-250€):
- 120x80 plywood board: 20€
- Routes and detours: 60-80€
- Analog transformer: 45€
- Locomotive + 2 wagons: 70-90€
- Basic landscape material: 20-30€
Intermediate level (400-500€):
- All of the above with better quality: 300€
- Basic DCC digital central unit: 120€
- Decoder chip for crazy: 25€
- Buildings and vegetation: 60-80€
Advanced level (800€+): You're already buying LED lighting, sound decoders (50-80€ each one), detailed resin buildings and you consider a second level with a ramp.
Essential tools for model railroading
This is where many people go wrong. Buying a model kit without having decent tools is like buying a car without knowing how to drive.
- A precision utility knife is the first thing you'll need. Those with replaceable blades, like the X-Acto, cost around 8-12€. Disposable blades dull quickly, so buy a pack of refills. We have them at Lost Bunker. cutting and drilling tools specifically designed for model making that can withstand years of use.
- Plastic glue and white glue are essential. The plastic glue (basically cyanoacrylate) bonds in seconds but is unforgiving. White glue allows you to reposition pieces. Between the two, 6-10€. Our glue section has everything from contact adhesives to glues specifically designed for each material.
- Fine-tipped tweezers are essential for handling small parts. Watchmaker's tweezers work perfectly, between 5 and 10 inches.10€. When you're assembling turnouts or installing details on buildings, you're working with 2-3 mm pieces. Without decent tweezers, it's frustrating.
- A self-healing A4 cutting mat saves your table. Olfa's are a standard for a reason. Between 8-12€ And they last for years. You'll also need metal rulers for clean, straight cuts. In our mats, rulers, and materials section, you'll find everything you need to work with precision.
With 50€ You'll have more than enough basic tools to get started. Then you can add mini drills (30-40€) if you want to drill plastic or wood cleanly, or precision files to adjust parts.
Step 1: Choose the scale of your model
People get more confused than necessary here. There are only two reasonable options for beginners.
H0 scale (1:87)
It's the standard size. A wagon measures about 15 cm, manageable but with decent detail. You need at least 120x80 cm to make anything other than a sad oval. The advantage is that materials are readily available and prices are reasonable. Functional locomotives in this scale start from 50€, although the quality ones are around 70-90€.
The track gauge is 16.5 mm. The minimum recommended curve radius is 360 mm, but long trains can pass through without issue at 420 mm. A standard turnout is approximately 165 mm long. This is important to consider when planning track layout.
N scale (1:160)
Half the size of H0. With 80x60 cm you can already create interesting layouts. Perfect if you live in a standard apartment. The material is a bit more expensive and your fingers might get a bit rough assembling details, but it fits on a Kallax shelf. Track gauge: 9 mm. Minimum recommended radius: 195 mm.
The drawback of N scale is that it requires more care. A speck of dust on the track causes problems. In HO scale, that same dust goes unnoticed. And precision tools become even more important. A poorly made cut in N scale is three times more noticeable than in HO scale.
Forget about Z, O, or G scales. Z is microscopic (1:220, for odd habits or ridiculously small spaces), O (1:45) and G (1:22.5) take up an entire room. They're not for beginners.
Step 2: Design the layout of your model railway
Design software isn't necessary. Graph paper and a pencil work just as well. The important thing is to think about:
- Real space: Measure. Then subtract 10 cm margin on each side for access.
- Height: Flat or sloped? Slopes look better but complicate the cabling. A gradient of 2.5-3% is the maximum reasonable for freight trains. Modern locomotives can climb up to 4% without any problem.
- Accessibility: You'll need to reach inside to fix derailments. Areas deeper than 40 cm are inaccessible without dismantling the entire system. Plan for access panels or removable access panels.
An oval track with a turnout will bore you in two weeks. A bone-shaped layout (two ovals connected by double track) or an L-shaped layout utilizing two walls is much better. It allows for more flexibility with the trains and seems less repetitive. If you're going to include a station, put it in an accessible area. Changing cars with your arms outstretched 60 cm is a real pain.
Free Design Programs
If you want software: SCARM (free, Windows) is the most widely used. It has track libraries for all brands. AnyRail is also good, but the free version limits you to 50 track pieces. To get started, SCARM is more than enough.
Step 3: Build the base and board
12mm plywood is standard. A 120x80cm sheet costs 15-25€ at any hardware store. You can mount it on folding sawhorses (30€ (the pair) or fix it to the wall with brackets. If you're using sawhorses, make sure they have cross braces. A wobbly tabletop is a real pain.
Some people use rigid extruded foam (like XPS). It weighs less and is easier to model mountains with. But it warps in the heat. If your house gets above 28°C in the summer, don't even try it. And contact cement melts it. Only use white glue or glue specifically designed for foam.
Another option is Sundeala boards (pressed paperboard).It accepts pins for temporarily fixing tracks, which is useful while you're adjusting the layout. They cost a bit more but are more versatile.
Secure the board before you begin. A model that moves is a derailment nightmare. If you're using sawhorses, anchor the legs with some weight (bricks, water jugs) or screw them together.
To cut the board cleanly, you'll need decent cutting tools. A jigsaw or a portable circular saw. And then sandpaper of various grits to smooth the edges. Start with 120 grit and finish with 240.
Step 4: Install the tracks and electrical system
Analog vs Digital DCC
Analogical: A transformer, a regulator, that's it. Cheap (40-60€It's simple. But you can only control one train at a time on each circuit. If you want two trains moving independently, you need two isolated circuits with switches. It can be done, but it's cumbersome.
Digital DCC (Digital Command Control): Each locomotive has a decoder chip, and you control them all independently from a central control unit. It costs more (central control unit from 120€, 20 chips30€ (It's crazy, I know) but if you want to operate several trains, it's worth it. You can have three trains stopped at the station while a fourth is running. With analog, that would require a nightmare of wiring.
To start, go analog. You can upgrade later if you run out of options. Many new locomotives come "DCC ready" (ready to have the chip installed in 5 minutes). Older analog locomotives require soldering, which is more complicated.
Track installation
Flexible track is less problematic than fixed track. It adapts better to irregular curves and has fewer joints (reducing the risk of short circuits). Secure it first with small model-making nails, without tightening them completely. Test that everything works: that the train runs smoothly and that there are no short circuits. Then glue it permanently with contact adhesive or white glue.
The wiring runs under the panel. Drill 3mm holes for the cables and use terminal blocks. No loose, dangling splices or those held together with electrical tape. That'll fail in six months. 0.5-0.75mm² wire is sufficient for power. Switches need separate connections if they're electrical. Label each wire clearly. You'll thank yourself later when troubleshooting.
A mini handheld or electric drill is essential here. In our cutting and drilling tools section You have options from 20€ that drill through wood and plastic without problems.
Track ballasting
Ballast (the gravel between the sleepers) is not decorative. It improves traction and dampens noise. Unballasted tracks sound like rattles. You can buy pre-mixed ballast (3-5€ 200 grams) or use fine sifted sand. Glue it with very diluted white glue applied with a syringe or dropper. Let it dry for 24 hours before running trains over it.
Step 5: Add landscaping and details
This is where the model railway goes from being just a track layout to something decent. And where quality tools and paints make a huge difference.
Base terrain
Crumpled chicken wire forming the relief + plaster bandages on top. Cheap, quick, and effective. A 1 kg bag of plaster costs 5€ And it goes a long way. Once dry, you paint with acrylics. Earth brown as a base, then greens and grays depending on the area.
Acrylic model paints are key here. Vallejo Model Color is the standard; they cost around €2.3€ the 17 ml bottle.With 20€ In terms of paint, you have enough for the entire base of a medium-sized model. You'll need browns (various shades), greens (for dry and wet grass, moss), grays for rocks, and blacks for shadows.
At Lost Bunker, we stock paints from multiple brands: Vallejo, Tamiya, AK Interactive, and AMMO. Each has its advantages. Vallejo is the standard for brush painting. Tamiya is great for airbrushing. AK and AMMO offer themed sets (soil, rust, vegetation) that make the job much easier.
If you want finer, faster finishes, an airbrush is helpful. It allows for gradients and textures that are difficult to achieve with a brush. A basic airbrush kit with a compressor starts at around €80.100€. It's not essential at first, but if you take the hobby seriously, it's worth the investment. Our airbrushing section has everything from basic to professional equipment.
Brushes matter too. Cheap synthetic ones leave marks. Better to invest 15-20€ In a decent set of brushes: numbers 2, 4, 6 and 10. The lower numbers for details, the higher numbers for large surfaces.
Vegetation and grass
Electrostatic lawn care looks spectacular but costs a fortune (the applicator 80-120€, the 8- fibers12€ per 50 grams). To begin, dyed crushed foam (2-4€ The 100-gram bag will do the trick. You can glue it on with white glue diluted 50% with water, applied with a sprayer or brush. There's also pre-mixed short-fiber turf available that adheres just as well. Two different shades look more natural than a single one.
The purchased trees cost 3-8€ the unit. If you have patience, you can make them with florist wire (2-3€ the roll), epoxy putty (10€ a 100-gram pack) and the same powdered grass for the foliage. Cheaper and customizable. YouTube is full of tutorials. You can make 5-6 decent trees in an afternoon.
For painting trees, vegetation, and natural textures, Vallejo and AK Interactive paints offer specific ranges: military greens, earth tones, and ochres. Much more realistic than using bright craft green.
Buildings and structures
Here, everyone chooses. There are plastic kits starting from 15€ (brands like Faller, Kibri), others made of cardboard for 8-12€ (less durable but useful for testing compositions), and painted resin buildings that cost 40€ or more. It depends on your budget and the level of detail you're looking for.
"Downloadable + print" cardboard kits are an economical option if you have a printer. There are websites with free templates. You'll need 180-200 gsm paper, a glue stick, and patience. 0€ You have a basic station.
To build structures, you need specific adhesives. Plastic to plastic: cyanoacrylate. Resin: two-component epoxy. Cardboard: white glue or glue stick. Having the right glue for each material saves you frustration.
And then you have to paint them. Primer first (necessary, as we've said), then base colors, then details (windows, doors, bricks). Here, fine brushes (sizes 0 and 00) are essential. And quality paint. The difference between Vallejo paints and craft paints is enormous.
Introduction to model railroading: Practical tips
Common mistakes when making a model train
- Starting without tools: Try cutting plastic with scissors or gluing it with cheap contact cement. Buy the bare minimum of decent tools from the start. Basic tools cost 50€ and they last for years.
- Buy unmeasured material: A wide radius turnout is 30 cm long. If your table is 60 cm, two won't fit. Measure before ordering.Many stores have downloadable PDF templates with actual dimensions.
- Improvised wiring: Electrical tape splices loosen over time due to the transformer's heat. Use screw connectors (terminal blocks) or solder if you know how. You'll avoid pointless breakdowns after six months.
- Painting without priming: Acrylic paint applied directly to plastic peels within a month. A spray primer (4-6€ The 150ml bottle solves this. Tamiya, Vallejo, or Mr. Hobby make good ones. A thin coat, 20 minutes drying time, and you're done. We have specific primers for each material.
- Do not test before fixing: I've seen people glue tracks that don't splic properly or buildings that obstruct the train's path. Test EVERYTHING before using permanent glue. Run the train 50 times. If it doesn't derail, perfect.
- Wanting to end it all at once: Landscaping takes time. Doing the whole area in a weekend leads to mistakes due to rushing. It's better to work in sections. One corner per week. You enjoy it more and the result is better.
- Use cheap paints: The difference between acrylic paints for model making and tempera paints for crafts is huge. Coverage, adhesion, durability. Invest in quality paints from the start.
Realistic timeline
A basic model (120x80 cm, simple layout, basic landscaping) takes about 40-60 hours of work. If you dedicate 2 hours a day during the week and 4-6 hours on the weekend, it takes 3-4 weeks to have it ready. Then the details are endless. You could spend years adding figures, lampposts, signs.
Don't get overwhelmed. This is a hobby, not a race against the clock. There are people who have had models under construction for five years and they're happy. Every work session is fun, not an obligation.
How do you know if model railroading is for you?
If you enjoy meticulous manual work, planning long projects, and don't mind spending an afternoon painting 20 crossbeams one by one, then probably yes. If you're looking for instant gratification, this isn't for you. Model railroading is slow and steady building.
It also helps if you like real trains, although it's not required. Some people are just looking for a relaxing hands-on project. It works the same way.
And having the right tools makes all the difference. There's a world of difference between working with a dull utility knife and electrical tape versus using specific model-making tools. One is frustrating, the other is fun.
At Lost Bunker we have all the modeling tools, Acrylic paints, airbrushing equipment, specialized adhesives, and precision materials needed for model railroading. Shipping throughout Spain with free shipping on orders over [amount missing]. 50€.
Frequently Asked Questions about how to make a model train set
How much does it cost to make a basic model train set?
Between 200-300€ For a functional 120x80 cm H0 scale model. Includes track, transformer, one locomotive, three wagons, base, and simple scenery. If you take advantage of offers or second-hand purchases (Facebook groups, Wallapop), you can lower the price. 150€.
What scale is best to start with in model railroading?
HO (1:87) if you have space for at least 120x80 cm. N (1:160) if you live in a small apartment and 80x60 cm is sufficient. Other scales are unnecessary complications for beginners.
What tools do I need to make a model train set?
Basic minimum: precision cutter, glues (plastic and white glue), fine tweezers, cutting mat, metal ruler, and sandpaper. With 50€ You start off well with decent tools. At Lost Bunker, we have everything. equipment required to get started in model railroading.
Do I need electrical knowledge?
Knowing how to connect wires to a transformer with screws is enough. If you know how to change a plug or assemble an IKEA lamp, you're more than covered. Digital DCC requires a bit more (programming addresses in decoders), but it's not rocket science. The manuals explain it step by step.
How much space do I need at a minimum?
HO scale: 120x80 cm for something decent with some variations. N scale: 80x60 cm. Anything smaller and you'll be limited to plain, uninspired ovals. If you only have 60x40 cm, consider a small, static diorama-type module.
What paints do I need for landscaping?
Acrylic paints specifically designed for model making. Browns (various shades), greens (grass, moss, dry vegetation), grays for rocks, blacks for shadows. Brands like Vallejo, Tamiya, or AK Interactive are standard. With 20-25€ You can start with basic paints. In our paints section, you'll find themed sets to make choosing easier.